Bucovina
Sweet Bucovina is the most suitable region for people interested in religion and Byzantine art.
Bucovina in a nutshell
- Geography
- Wildlife & flora
- Sub-regions
- Religion
- Culture & customs
- Architecture
- Music & dance
- UNESCO heritage
- Points of interest
Neighbors & surface
Situated in the northern part of Romania, Bucovina boarders Ukraine to the north, Moldova to the south-east and Maramures to the west. The total surface of proper Bucovina is of 10,442 km2 (4,032 sq mi), divided in almost equal parts between Ukraine and Romania.
Landscape & waters
Standing at the foothills of the Eastern Carpathians (Carpatii Orientali) and descending down to Suceava Plateau, Bucovina is a mix of hilly area (in the west) and a flat area (in the east). Ranging between 325 m in Suceava Plateau and 1932 m in Suhard Mountain range (Omu Peak), the average altitude in Bucovina is of about 550-600m, reason for which the locals call it ‘Sweet Bucovina’ when referring to it’s gentle hills.
The western part is occupied by Bucovina Subcarpathians (Obcinele Bucovinei) which are divided into four main mountainous chains: the Great Ridge (Obcina Mare), Feredeu Ridge (Obcina Feredeu), Mestecanis Ridge (Obcina Mestecanis) and Brodina Ridge (Obcina Brodinei).
Four major rivers (Siret, Suceava, Moldova and Bistrita) cross the region, all collecting several tributaries and flowing down, like all rivers in Romania, into the Danube River.
Nature reserves & parks
> geological reserves: 12 Apostles Reserve
> botanical reserves: Poiana Stampei and Saru Dornei Peat bogs, Frumoasa Reserve, Giumalau Reserve
> mix reserves: Slatioara Secular Forest, Devil’s Mill (Moara Dracului) Gorge
> parks: Rodnei and Calimani National Park
As a consequence of the reduced human intervention upon nature, similar to Transylvania and Maramures, the varied habitats from Bucovina display a rich variety of wild flowers and wildlife.
Wildflowers
With great variety of flowers typical for meadow, forest or alpine habitats, one just need to eye to see and passion to enjoy: Great masterwort (Astrantia major), Aconitum moldavica, Globe flower (Trollius europaeus), various orchid species, Corydalis cava, ox-eye daisy (Chrysanthemum leucanthe), Rhododendron myrtifolium, northern bedstraw (Galium boreale), Knautia macedonica, Purple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria), Great burnet (Sanguisorba officinalis).
Mushrooms & fungi
If there is a popular mushroom in Bucovina, that is the penny bun (Boletus edulis). But the mushroom and fungi world is much more diverse than that, including many other edible or simply nicely colored or strange-shaped mushrooms, such as: fly agaric (Amanita muscaria), parasol mushroom (Macrolepiota procera), turkey tail (Trames versicolor), yellow stagshorn (Calocera viscosa), saffron milk cap (Lactarius deliciosus) or Hydnellum peckii.
Trees & forests
Once one finds of the origin of the name of Bucovina (which comes from German language, Buchenland, meaning ‘the land of beech trees’), it’s very easy to guess which is the predominant deciduous tree in the region. Yet, at higher altitude, evergreen forests are also often met. Slatioara Secular forest is only one of the eight secular forest declared nature reserve in Bucovina, but the only one being included on UNESCO heritage list.
Insects, butterflies & moths
The non-use of pesticides and insecticides in Bucovina proved to be beneficial not only for the invertebrate’s life, but also for birds, mammals and finally humans. Often small insectivore mammals (like shrews, moles or hedgehogs) feed on the invertebrates. Birds do to, both on invertebrates and small mammals. Bigger mammals feed on birds, including pest birds. And this is how nature is self-controlling agricultural pests and humans can still be in balance with nature. Certain species of insects and butterflies also help plant pollination and seed spreading. Others are simply pleasant to admire or listen to.
Together with Cluj area (in Transylvania), Bucovina is the only region in Europe where all four species of Maculinea butterflies are present at the same time: the scarce large blue (Maculinea teleius), alcon blue (Maculinea alcon), dusky large blue (Maculinea nausithous) and large blue (Maculinea arion).
Amphibians, reptiles & fish
Besides different species of newts, frogs & toads, the fresh rivers are home to a wide variety of fish: Danube salmon, rainbow and brook trout, grayling, common chub, nase, barbel, miller’s thumb, minnow, stone loach, gudgeon. Several species of lizards and snakes represent the reptile life found in Bucovina. The only venom snake in Romania is the viper, most popular specie in Bucovina being Common Europena viper (Vipera berus).
Birds
Whether they are birds of pray, song birds or night birds, avifauna of Bucovina is abundant: black grouse (Tetrao tetrix), hazel grouse (Tetrastes bonasia), northern goshawk (Accipiter gentilis), common buzzard (Buteo buteo), long-eared owl (Asio otus), Tawny owl (Strix aluco), greated spotted eagle (Aquilla clanga), red-footed falcon (Falco vespertinus), common kestrel (Falco tinnunculus), black woodpecker (Dryocopus martius).
Mammals
> carnivores: brown bear, lynx, wild cat, wolf, fox, pine marten
> hoofed feet mammals: wild boar, red & roe deer, chamois
> rodents: alpine marmot, brown hare, badger, least weasel, European polecat, European mink, muskrat, edible dormouse
> bats: where ever there are caves or abandoned attics in Romania there are bats. Bucovina is proud to shelter several species out of the total species living in Romania.
Starting with 1940 the historic region of Bucovina was divided between the Soviet Union and Romania.
Northern Bucovina, now in Ukraine, has the capital city in Chernivtsi. It is popular to visit for Chernivtsi University (UNESCO heritage) and city, the medieval towns and fortresses (Khotyn, Kamianets-Podilskyi) and the Jewish heritage.
Southern Bucovina, now in Romania, has the capital city in Suceava. The brand of this area stands in the painted monasteries (eight of them being UNESCO heritage), the landscape, the Hutul heritage and the Easter egg painting tradition.
Compared to Transylvania, where during the Middle Ages the major two religions were Catholic and Protestant, in Bucovina (as part of Moldova medieval state), the main religion has always been Orthodox. Yet, similar to Transylvania, Bucovina was a multiethnic region, with Romanian, Polish, German, Szekely, Armenian, Jewish, Ruthenian and Hutsul communities living together and sharing confessions. The Romanian communities are mainly Orthodox. The Hutsuls and Ruthenians are also Orthodox, but they respect the Old Rite, celebrating Christmas on January 6th. The Polish, German, Szekely and Armenian communities were Catholic (except the Polish communities, the majority of the others left the territory). And finally, the Jewish community, had many synagogues in the region, most demolished during WWII.
Traditional crafts
Originating in the Rusyn tradition, Easter Egg painting is now one of Bucovina’s brands. Using specially designed utensils and having to follow successive stages of dyeing, proves to be a laborious work. Assisting the meticulous hand decoration of an egg is a must do in Bucovina!
Propriety fencing
Similar to Maramures, fencing one’s propriety is very popular in Bucovina. From being used in the village to protect the domestic area against wild animals, the fencing has been extended on the fields and hills, to protect the crops from the wild animals and to enclose the cattle which are left alone on the pastures. The big wooden gates, are mostly used nowadays to suggest the wealth of a family. Painted, not carved like in Maramures, they fit perfectly with the rest of the richly decorated traditional household.
Hay making
Just like Maramures, Bucovina is a profoundly rural region, where small subsistence farms are still sustaining family life. Although at a smaller scale than in Maramures, yet a larger scale than in Transylvania, hay production is essential in feeding the domestic animals. After mowing and drying, the hay is left on the fields over winter. Compared to Maramures, where is is mostly pilled up in haystacks, in Bucovina is is stored in special hay sheds that are found all over the fields and hills.
Hutul heritage
Originating from Transcarpatia region, in nowadays Ukraine, the Hutuls are a Rusyn population specialized on wood exploitation and horse breeding. They live up in the mountains and still use their own language. The Easter egg painting tradition, so popular now in Bucovina, would originate from their heritage.
Culinary tradition
Being the second coldest region in Romania, after the Szekely land in Transylvania, the local cuisine is mainly destined to keep you going in harsh winter times. Fat pork dishes play an important role in doing that. But, with so many monasteries all around, fasting is very popular in the region. The local cuisine is therefore adapted for fasting periods, substituting the animal protein with fish and plant based protein and many carbohydrates. Borscht soups, trout and porcini dishes together with pastries are representative for Bucovina cuisine.
Afinata production
This delicious blueberry liqueur is made by leaving the fresh fruit from the Carpathian mountains to ferment with sugar for a couple of weeks. Home made brandy is later on blended in and the mixture is left to mature for at least one month. Besides the taste differing according to the quantity of fruit used, aging the drink improves the quality. The result is a nicely colored soothing drink, iconic for Bucovina.
Religious & folk customs
Resurrection Night (Noaptea de Inviere) – Celebrated at midnight, on Easter eve, when the believers together with the priest surround the church on the outside with lit candles and singing. During the three days of Easter celebration, believers take back home from the church a bread-and-wine mixture called Pasti (Easter). From the Easter Eve until Pentecost, the common greetings are replaced with ‘Christ has resurrected!’ and the reply ‘Indeed He has!’.
New Year’s Eve – with pagan origins related to chasing away evil spirits, several folk customs (the goat dance, the bear dance) are practiced in this period. One can assist such performances in daytime in many villages (Vicovu de Sus, Marginea, Dorna Arini). During the night, local groups (mainly youngsters and Gypsies) would dress up like goats and bears and, accompanied by music, would visit the houses for chasing away the evil spirits and bringing fortune for the new year.
Wooden architecture
Like in all forest region, the wood is the main civil construction material in Bucovina. The architecture of the wooden households presents similarities to the typical wooden architecture from Transcarpathia region (in Ukraine), Małopolska region (in Poland), Baltic states and even the old wooden architecture from Turku region (in Finland).
Medieval architecture
Before anything else, the medieval architecture of Bucovina is represented by the Orthodox monasteries, many of them decorated with frescoes and some included on the UNESCO heritage list. The architectural style referred to in connection with the monasteries is called ‘Moldavian style’. It is characterized by a mix of Byzantine, Serbian, Gothic and local influences and is mainly distinguishable by the bell tower and roofing structure and the wide windowless walls, especially designed for illustrating monumental paintings. Most of these monasteries were erected during the 14th-15th century, in areas which, at that point, were well isolated. Some still preserve the defense wall, built by virtue of the Turkish peril.
Defense architecture
Dating from the 14th century, with later successive improvements and restorations, until the 17th the Fortress of Suceava was the Seat Fortress of Moldova medieval state. Nowadays it is the only medieval fortress preserved in southern Bucovina.
In Norther Bucovina (Ukraine), on the other hand, dating from the same period, lay Khotyn Fortress and the Old Kam’yanets Castle of Kamianets-Podilskyi.
Traditional instruments
> fluier & tilinca (pipes)
> cimpoi (Romanian bagpipe)
> cobza (Romanian lute)
> violin
> accordion
> small drum (mainly used for the goat dance)
Dances
> chain dances: hora (close circle dance), sarba (open circle dance), hutulca
> couple dances: invartita, batuta, polca
> winter customs dances: the goat (capra), the bear (ursul)
> painted monasteries: Sucevita, Moldovita, Voronet, Humor, Probota, Arbore, Patrauti, Suceava
> Slatioara Secular Forest
Culture
> monasteries (Sucevita, Moldovita, Voronet, Dragomirna, Bogdana, Arbore)
> traditional villages (Moldovita, Sucevita, Putna)
> medieval fortresses (Suceava)
> museums (Easter Egg Museum)
> craftsmen (Easter egg painters, potters, carpet weavers)
> traditional agriculture (hay making, ploughing)
> local food
> winter folk customs
Nature
> mountain trails in the Carpathians
> panoramic roads (Transrarau)
> wildflowers
> reserves & nature parks
> winter sports
